Emulsified Hair Butter: New Emulsifiers, Great Results!

Trying the same formulation with different emulsiers and slight different changes

If you have been a long-time follower of my Instagram page @formulatorgh_shop, you may have noticed multiple iterations of the EMULSIFIED Hair Butter/curl cream. The effectiveness of the curling aspect depends on your hair texture. For those with extra coarse hair, it provides deep moisture for days. Conversely, for those with lighter, curlier hair, it aids in defining the curls – although it’s important to note that it doesn’t offer a strong hold.

Today, I’ve decided to create a revamped version of the Marshmallow and Oat emulsified hair butter. This time, I’m experimenting with the same or a similar formula, but incorporating different emulsifiers.

The three emulsifiers at work today: Varisoft eq 65, Btms MCC, Btms 25

Version 1

Th Varisoft Emulsified Hair Butter: made with a blend of Varisoft eq 65, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isoamly laurate, Cocoa Butter, Mashmallow root extract, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Cationic guar, D-Panthenol and few more add on.

This is a version I have done quiet a few time mostly changing only the oils or butter all else stays pretty much the same.

Final result was as expected, smooth, light weight, moisturizing and detangling with just the right amout of moisture to last a few days without the need to reapply any other product.

My oil and water phase.
Final Result

Version 2

Btms MCC Emulsified Hair Butter.

I have tried BTMS MCC a few times before this, so I know from experience that it does not create a super thick emulsion like your regular BTMS 50 or BTMS 25 would. However, since the hair butter is expected to have a thick consistency, my goal was to determine how thick a consistency I could achieve with BTMS MCC.

I had come across a sample formulation online that used 1% HEC in conjunction with BTMS MCC (2%) and cetearyl alcohol (5%). I decided to try that formulation and observe the results.

Everything else in this formulation is the same as the Varisoft version, except I replaced Varisoft with BTMS MCC, increased the cetearyl alcohol amount, and added HEC.

The final result looked and felt more compact ( due to the added gum and higher cetearyl alcohol content, I believe). The performance went beyond what I had expected. I must say that this is my current favorite. It defined the hair much more effectively than version 1 did. The section where I used this butter had far fewer tangles than all the others when I was unraveling my twists after 3 weeks.

The final results

Version 3

Btms 25 Emulsified Hair Butter

At this point, I was curious about how the performance of this would be if I switch the mashmallow root extract for cucumber extract and go with regular guar gum in place of HEC in Version 2.

Let’s just say this was my least favourite of all three.

Oil and water phase
Final results

Some Lessons and Observations made

  1. Some changes might appear minor, but they have the potential to entirely transform the appearance and texture of your formulation. For instance, making adjustments to emulsifiers can significantly impact the look and tactile experience of your product.
  2. Different gums have different textures. The verison with HEC feels different from the one with guar or the one with no added gum.

Unlock all three formulas now

Purchase today and receive not only the trio of formulas but also substitution suggestions various ingredients used.

Price – GHC 500 / USD 50

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1 Response

  1. Formulator says:

    Did this experiement give ideas on what you could also try?

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